Jan Katz, the Federation's director of Jewish Education Services and staff member on the trip, is sending daily reflections on the group's activities. Other than details on the trip itself (which went very smoothly), here is a run-down on "day 1" for the Rochester educators and the Modi'in educators they are paired with:
Day 1, March 17
We drove directly to Naot Kedumim, where our guide, Nancy Benjamin, was the very same for my first tour of the preserve almost 15 years ago. She's an expert. All enjoyed the balmy 70 degree weather, walking around, having a high vantage point to see in all directions and leaning some history and Tanakh. We began our toor with coffee, tea and cake in their rustic indoor banquet facilty and ended with lovely lunch of organic salads, techini and all kinds of local cheeses.
The group at Naot Kedumim with our guide, Nancy Benjamin
By 1 p.m. we were sitting in the board room of the municipality with Mayor Spector and the new Manager of Education in Modi'in, just hired this week, Chaya (her last name eludes me). Spector gave a lucid and brief history of Modiin and demographic info including that the big mall should finally open by July, and Chaya read a few remarks in English. We took photos, which I will either attach here if I can figure out how to do it, or have Alan send when he gets up. We will march with the mayor at the front of the parade on Friday morning. The parade is quite short, a few blocks, but with a dais set up in the end for remarks and entertainment. From the municipality, we shlepped our luggage, with the help of those unencumbered, now augmented with teachers who have shown up during the day, Yonat (Ann's partner), Smadar (who is "fighting" with Yonat to share the Anderson's), Suri, across the street to Idanim, Aviva's school, which is acting as our home base. There, coffee and cake were set up in the library, Yonat made a birthday cake for Ann and we sang, and the rest of the host families trickled in.
In the library of Idanim school, Yonat made a birthday cake for Ann, with candles and sparklers
Those who were new, were warm, embracing, and enthusiastic. Barb Shron's host is the teacher of English speakers at Nativ Zevulun, modern othodox (short sleeves, no head covering, etc.) and her husband is American, a Mets fan, and a good friend of the rabbi in Ithaca, also our good friend (the world gets smaller every day). We finally arrived back at Aviva's at 5, unpacked, had more coffee and homemade cake, shared wedding pics on our respective computers, went to Yishpro for an hour of shopping, and returned at 7 at which time I promptly fell asleep (with my day clothes on) whille Alan had a lovely dinner with the family of Israeli salads, including Omri and his wife, Hila, who apparently show up mornings and evenings, with their puppy, Daffy. I am thoroughly enjoying their 12 year old, Or, whom Aviva calls unabashedly "nesicha" (princiess). At 8 this morning we meet at the municipality for a day in Jerusalem. I went over the itineray with Aviva last night and was surprised to see that the only sight in the old city listed besides the Cardo was the museum of the second temple, and not the tunnels. I'm not sure that they can do the switch now, but I requested that they try. Otherwise, all the many many sites included will be very exciting for all of us. I think I've rambled on enough.
Day 2 - March 18
What a glorious day in Jerusalem! We met each other at the tour bus in front of the municipality at 8:00 a.m. and journeyed to Jerusalem. Today, 3 pre-school teachers from Yozma, Yonat (Ann's host and match), Shuli (Shelley's host and match) joined us. Andrea, regrettably landed a case of vertigo and was quite sick for a while, but most definitely a trooper. She insisted on joining us for the day and repeating as mantra that she would be better in a few hours (which did happen indeed, as she danced at the dinner table), all this on the curvy, bouncy, twisty ride to Jerusalem on Highway #1. We were not allowed to use the shortcut, highway #443. Apparently, some degree of volatility had been expected and you may have read already about the stabbing of a rabbi at Damascus Gate, far from our own haunts today. Alan and I only found out about this incident from our friend halfway through the day - no one else knew about it and so the day was not marred by any extra worries. We began at the lookout on Mt. Scopus for 1/2 houror so, inclucing a "shehechiyanu" with grape juice.
Andrea with the 2 pre-school teachers from Yozma, Etti on the left, Andrea's matched teacher, and Sigal on the right, Amy Ressel's matched teacher.
Then, back to our very comfortable bus for a traffic-filled hop to the Zion Gate. The latter is now under re-construction so, although open for foot traffic, is covered with scaffolding covering the infamous bullet holes from the 1948 war. The large iron mezzuzzah in the opening went almost unnoticed but when pointed out became the most emotional entrance into the walled city for the group. From then on it was a battle of sorts to urge our dear colleagues away from shopping and photographing at every step of the way. Who can blame them! We ambled to the Cardo where a combo of Hana, Alan, and mostly Pauline explained the history, antiquities and passing populations. The group was then given a real shopping reprieve for one and a half hours, with bag lunches to fuel our shopping lust (two bagel and cream cheese sandwiches each, water, fruit, muffin - this trip is not a weight-losing, or even weight-watching enterprise). Alan and I took Pauline, Shelley and Rob through the Moslem quarter to our long time (coming on 39 years) friend George Karaveghian, Armenian who owns a photo shop on Christian Quarter Road. George's father walked from Armenia after the genocide and as a skilled photographer spent his life photographing Jerusalem. All three were thrilled and purchased photos (all in sepia). We were all lucky to witness the appearance of the very first print (by George's son, Eli, a fine digital photographer and developer) a 3-foot long and 1 foot high night panorama of Jerusalem. Truly breathtaking! We let Pauline purchase it (together with personal autograph) as we ordered one for our next trip to Israel. Rob successfully negotiated a t-shirt in the Arab shook, but I did not have the stamina to bargain for the sheish peish (backgammon) game that caught my eye. We did have enough time to take in the Church of the Sepulcher before joining the others. We all met together in due time back at the Cardo and had a brief show and tell of our purchases.
Group at the kotel
On to the Kotel. The square was filled with young soldiers, marching in for a ceremony for graduating basic training. Our newbies were taken aback by the baby faces and large guns hanging on shoulders. We all took lots of pics. As expected, visiting the wall itself and leaving a note was a truly powerful experience for the first timers. A few of the women were disappointed (and somewhat angry) at the high mechitsa between the men's and women's sections and the size of the women's section compared to the men's. We could not go through the tunnel along the wall today. Hana informed us that a group has to make a reservation at least a year in advance. Before leaving the Old City, we stopped in front of the David Insitute to view the wall size painted re-construction of the Cardo in ancient times, with all its hustle and bustle, topped by doves in the sky. And, as always, we checked out yet another sherut (bathroom). I have challenged the group to identify at least 15 different kinds of "flushers" in Israel. From the subline to the ridiculous. We left by the Dung Gate and rode to Mt. Herzl. We first walked to Herzl's grave/monument. Workmen were already putting up bleachers for the Yom Hazikaron ceremony in front of the monument in May. Then, we walked back to the entrance for our timed appointment with a docent to go through the new Herzl Museum. It was absolutely a "wow". Four large rooms with screens and multimedia set-up on all sides told the story of Herzl and the 6 Zionist Congresses he headed, as well as his family, his works, his passions, and his many missions to solidify a homeland for the Jews. The tour took a bit under an hour and we all inhaled the entire experience. A must, I would say, alongside the military cemetery. When we emerged, the sun had gone down and the temperature was 10 degrees colder. Still, we decided we could not leave without seeing the grave of Yitzchak Rabin, and his predecessors (I still get the chills when I place a stone on Golda's grave). Diane Morse and Mark Winsberg, Rochesterian doctors working for a year in Jerusalem met us there (ostensibly to collect the dental floss we brought for them) and joined us for their first time seeing the cemetery. Tired, but emotionally and cognitively sated, we drove back downtown, debussed (is this a word?) at the windmill for a quick view of dusk over the city, a spin around the quaint houses of Mishkenot Sha'anim, and then a walk across the street (no easy feat) to eat at Little Italy at the bottom of Keren Hayesod and opposite the Inbal Hotel. The food was terrific, with wonderful salads and foccaccia as first course (which many in our party thougth was the main meal - no surprise), followed by a variety of wonderfully sophisticated and savory pasta dishes. Sweet "nana" (mint) tea at the close of the meal caused my heart to flood with memories of my first year in Israel in 1968. We actually passed the apartment that Alan and I lived in during the first year of our marriage, and even "Shikoon Aleph", the now decrepid dormitory that we lived in on the Givat Ram campus of Hebrew U. in 1968 where we met. We sat over dinner for 3 hours and could have extended that time, with endless conversations, etc. Some unsolicited snippets: Terry said that he knew what Israel was all about through the books he used for teaching, but now he feels it. Sue Krasner said she entered a sacred space upon coming to Israel and also she has so enjoyed getting to know her own Rochester colleagues on a new, deeper, and authentic level. Sue Kruchten said that we (Fed) has given her the greatest gift. The group continues to shower Hana and Aviva with words of appreciation all day long and pretend to pinch themselves as they take in each experience. We arrived back at Modi'in at 9:00 p.m. and were quite reluctant to leave each other, even with the hosts waiting for us outside the Municipality. Aviva and I look forward to our debriefing session with the group next Monday afternoon to probe how the experience will impact the classroom back in Rochester and the entire schools when each participant teaches. Tomorrow we all go to our respective schools for Purim activities, and then off to Tel Aviv for the afternoon and dinner at "Dr. Shakshooka's." The lessons will be given by our teachers on Thursday as festivities in the schools must be curtailed on that day due to the Fast of Esther, one day prior to Purim. Wishing you all a chag Purim sameach - a freilich, fun -filled day, on Friday.
Shalom,
Jan
Aviva and Yonat (Ann's match) Wednesday morning, ready for all the in-school festivities throughout Modii'in
Andrea in Yozma's pre-school class called Shibolim (Sheaves of Wheat) with her match, Etty
Independence Hall
Idanim School - Susan Krasner in costume
Days 4 and 6
Hi All,
It is Motzei Shabbat - Shavua Tov. Early to bed and early to rise - tomorrow is a more than full day up north - Tzippori, Tzfat, Rosh Pina, Kinneret, and Tiberias for dinner. Aviva called all the hosts to receive a report on what all of our teachers did for Shabbat.
Susan Krasner, Jim and Isaac Anderson, Alan and I and our respective hosts participated in Kabbalat Shabbat at Yozma, the reform synagogue.
Those matched with Yachad attended conservative services at the congregation located at the school, and in the same way, Netiv Zevulun, the traditional orthodox school also houses its own synagogue. Each of us was gifted with a warm, inviting Shabbat dinner with our hosts. At Aviva's home, we ate and laughed and debated and sang and laughed and ate. Aviva, the superwoman, left the group at noon on Friday and had prepared upon my arrival home no less than 12 dishes, including home-made Hallah, a chocolate torte (the most important foods), chicken, all manor of salads and side dishes, and a beautifully decorated table. Those who did join their family for an outing during the day on Shabbat (in 90 degree heat) went to Massada, Tel Aviv, Zichron Yaacov, etc.
Our marching in the Purim parade down Emek Hachula Street (one of the main boulevards) yesterday morning remains a highlight. Alon, the coordinator of the parade, ensured that we had an American and Israeli flag to hold as well as a large P2K sign and all the Modiinites on the sidelines cheered for us, clapped, and showed overflowing emotion at our presence among them. At one point the group of dressed up pioneers in front of us took our hands and joined together in a hora. We marched with the major at the front of the line. When we reached the dais, the mayor, Moshe Spector, and vice mayor, Alex Weintraub, invited me and another (I grabbed Terry) to stand on the dais between them for the duration of the parade. We were honored and privileged to join the few. After a half hour, we politely took our leave, especially as multiple loud speakers threatened to push our eardrums out of our ears. We were swept with the crowd for a bit before locating our companions, finding a way to cross the street and joining them, coicidentally in front of Netiv Zevulun School. The attached photo of some of our group sitting on a stoop was taken in front of the school.
After the parade we made our way on foot to a lovely cafe, Koreh Basefer, for lunch and conversation. Yehuda Gohar, Chair of the Education Bridge in Modi'in, joined us. Ketzale, Hana's husband, dutifully shuttled the group up to Titorah Hill after lunch (too hot to walk) for an outstanding view of the entire city and a bit of history. We made our way down on foot to the Cultural Center to view Aviva Berger's statue and Lynn Feldman's work of art in the lobby, as always, later than we had planned. Many questions, many photos, many conversations! We say: just a taste - must return for more.
Laila tov,
Jan